How To Groom Your Dog: What Different Hair Types Need and Where To Start

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  • Not a substitute for professional veterinary help.

Regular grooming is a must if you want your pup to feel their best. But learning how to groom a dog at home may feel overwhelming at first. What tools do you need, and how often should you groom your dog? What are the key steps, and when do you need to see a professional?

Fortunately, with a little preparation, practice, and patience, you can master DIY dog grooming on your own. We consulted a professional groomer and several veterinarians to find out what pet parents should know when it comes to brushing, bathing, and trimming their dogs’ fur. We also review how to care for your dog’s nails, teeth, ears, and eyes. And if you run into trouble with a dog resistant to grooming, we have tips for proceeding gently—and when to call in a pro.

How To Take Care of a Dog’s Skin and Coat

Maintaining your dog’s skin and coat not only keeps them looking beautiful but also contributes to better overall health. While all dogs benefit from regular grooming, individual routines will differ from dog to dog.

Virtually all dogs need regular baths

No matter their hair length or coat type, all dogs need the occasional bath. Even if you delegate this task to a professional, you’ll appreciate knowing how to do it after a soggy or muddy adventure.

To get started, first, gather your supplies, which may include the following.

  • Dog-safe shampoo and conditioner: Use products specifically formulated for dogs, as human shampoo or conditioner can irritate skin.
  • Towels: A quick-drying and absorbent towel eliminates any wet dog smell and warms your pup up after a soak. If you don’t have a tub mat, place a towel inside the tub to prevent slipping.
  • Dog-safe eye wipes: These are formulated to be gentle on your dog’s face.
  • A dog shower head: While optional, a portable attachment can make bath time easier.
  • A dog blow dryer: Not all breeds will need one, but a dog blow dryer speeds up the drying process without overheating your pup. They’re most useful for long-haired, double-coated, and dense-furred dogs.
  • Hair strainer: When you bathe your dog, a lot of fur can come out. Using something to catch the hair will keep it from clogging your drain.

Once you’ve got your supplies handy, it’s time to figure out where you’ll bathe your dog. If they’re small, the sink will do. Otherwise, the tub or shower often works well. Some pet parents prefer to take things outdoors, but remember that water from a garden hose is often cold. Unless it’s a scorcher and your dog doesn’t chill easily, lukewarm tap water is usually best.

  1. Set up your bathing station. Choose where you’re going to clean your dog and get your supplies ready.
  2. Brush first. Before bathing your dog, brush them thoroughly to remove loose hairs and any mats that will get worse when wet.
  3. Test the water temperature. Lukewarm or slightly warmer is best for dogs.
  4. Soak your dog’s body. Using a pitcher or shower head, avoid their ears and eyes.
  5. Lather with shampoo. Again, avoid the face—you can clean your dog’s eyes with a specialty wipe.
  6. Rinse. Be thorough because residual shampoo can irritate your dog’s skin.
  7. Dry with towels or a dog hairdryer. Pat your dog dry, and don’t rub, as this can tangle the hair.

And you’re done! Until their next bath, that is. The length of time between baths will vary from dog to dog, depending on their coat type. Dogs with oily skin will need a soak more often, and dogs with double coats or curly or wavy hair may benefit from monthly baths. Remember not to bathe your dog TOO often, as this can strip their coat of natural oils.

Here’s a basic breakdown of a bathing schedule you can aim for.

Coat Type Bathing Frequency
Short hair (Dachshunds, Pugs, Boxers) Every 4-6 weeks for dogs with oily skin; every 6-12 weeks for other short-haired dogs
Long hair (Afghan Hounds, Irish Setters, Havanese) Every 4-6 weeks
Double coats (Golden Retrievers, Huskies, Pomeranians) Monthly
Wiry coats (Terriers, Irish Wolfhounds, Schnauzers) Every 6-8 weeks
Curly & wavy coats (Poodles, Bichon Frise, Portuguese Water Dogs) Monthly
Silky coats (Lhasa Apso, Yorkies, Shih Tzus) Every 4-6 weeks

When should you seek out a professional groomer?

If you have your hands full, consider outsourcing this task to a professional groomer. “Professional groomers tend to be able to provide a much more thorough bath service with professional-grade products, personalized recommendations for individual pets, as well as optimized space and equipment to perform grooming services,” explains Michelle North, a Fear Free Certified Groomer at Earthwise Pet in Fremont, WA.

However, North adds that fearful or anxious dogs may do better with baths at home with their trusted human. We’ve found that dry dog shampoo can be a good compromise for water-shy pups. You can also harness the power of distraction with water toys or a suction cup lick mat smeared with dog-safe peanut butter. Finally, offering lots of treats before, during, and after your dog’s bath is always a good idea to encourage positive associations.

But how much does it cost to groom a dog? According to our latest research, grooming appointments fall in the neighborhood of $50-$125, which can add up over time. If you have a breed that requires frequent trips to the groomer, consider offsetting this cost by doing your own upkeep at home between visits.

Most dogs need to be brushed—but how often depends on coat type and season

Brushing your dog keeps them comfortable by removing loose hair—and it keeps you sane by minimizing the clouds of fur in your home. Using the right brush for your dog’s hair type can make this task simpler and more effective.

  • Rubber curry brushes work well with short coats and massage the skin.
  • Bristle brushes also work best on short, smooth coats.
  • Slicker brushes are ideal for medium to long coats, wiry coats, and curly coats.
  • Pin brushes are best for perfecting long coats and removing tangles.
  • Greyhound combs can work out tangles in longer, silky coats.
  • Undercoat rakes are essential for removing the dense undercoat in double-coated breeds (German Shepherds, Malamutes, Pomeranians).

How often your dog needs to be brushed will depend on their breed and coat type. Short-haired dogs without an undercoat can be brushed once a week, while long-haired dogs or dogs with silky, wavy, or curly coats should be brushed daily. Here’s a breakdown by coat type.

Coat Type Best Brush Type(s) Frequency
Short-haired, smooth-coated (Boxers, Labs, Dachshunds, Bulldogs, Beagles) Rubber curry brush, bristle brush Weekly for dogs without an undercoat; every other day for dogs with an undercoat
Long-haired (Afghan Hounds, Maltese, Yorkies, Irish Setters) Slicker brush, pin brush, and greyhound comb for working out tangles Daily
Double coats (Huskies, Golden Retrievers, Border Collies) Rake brush for removing loose undercoat fur 2-3 times per week/daily when they’re blowing their coat
Wiry coats (Airedale, Terriers, Irish Wolfhounds) Slicker brush 2-3 times per week
Curly and wavy coats (Doodles, Poodles, Bichon Frise, Portuguese Water Dogs) Slicker brush, pin brush Daily
Silky coats (Yorkies, Shih Tzus, Lhasa Apso) Greyhound comb Daily

To brush your dog, follow these general guidelines: 

  1. Brush in the direction of hair growth.
  2. Be gentle, and don’t apply too much pressure.
  3. Don’t go over the same spot too often, or you could cause brush burn.

If your dog is anxious about brushing, try doing it after they’re tired from exercise or play, and offer lots of treats as positive reinforcement. Additionally, rubber grooming gloves offer a nice alternative for dogs who are wary of traditional brushes.

Some breeds need to have their hair trimmed

According to Michelle North, dogs with curly, wavy, and drop coats need the most frequent trims (every four to eight weeks). Some breeds that need routine trims include:

Silky-haired dogs may also benefit from regular trims, though the frequency will depend on the desired coat length. Typically, dogs with a double coat don’t need a full-on haircut, but tidy-ups around the paws may help. The same goes for wire-coated breeds, which don’t usually need haircuts but trimming around the face and feet.

It’s important never to shave dogs with a double coat, as this can disrupt their hair’s growth pattern. Short-haired dogs never need their hair trimmed unless it’s medically necessary. And in what direction do you cut when grooming a dog? For most dogs, you’ll want to use your scissors or clippers in the direction of their hair growth.

What about dogs who need a touch-up between trips to the groomer? “Pet parents can certainly maintain areas like paw pads, eye area, and potty areas between grooms with an electric clipper and some thinning shears or ball-tip curved shears,” says North.

In addition, she reminds pet parents that most groomers will be happy to provide guidance and tips for their particular dog. “Many groomers will offer personalized home maintenance lessons upon request for their clients.”

If you encounter tight matting, especially around the paw pads or potty area, North suggests leaving it to a professional. She explains that matting can be difficult to remove and increases the risk of injury or irritation. A Fear-Free Certified professional can also help with dogs who are anxious about the grooming process.

How To Care for a Dog’s Nails and Paws

From hard pavement to hot sand and icy trails, our dogs’ paws endure a lot! They need a little TLC to stay in tip-top shape. This includes nail trimming, which prevents painful posture issues, and checking paws for wear.

A lot of dogs need their nails trimmed

Most dogs will need a nail trim every three to four weeks. However, this timeline varies, depending on the types of surfaces your dog walks on. For instance, city dogs who walk on hard sidewalks will wear their nails down faster than dogs in rural settings who walk on grass or dirt. Generally, you’ll want to trim your dog’s nails when they nearly reach the floor or when you hear them start to click on the ground.

When clipping your dog’s nails, it’s important to use the right tools. Avoid using flat human clippers, which won’t cut through properly and may damage your dog’s nails. Instead, choose a dog nail clipper appropriate for your dog’s size and the type of nails they have.

  • Guillotine clippers are quiet and make a quick, clean cut. They work for most types of dogs.
  • Scissor-style clippers are geared toward puppies and smaller breeds, like Chihuahuas and Papillons.
  • Nail grinders can be useful for anxious dogs who dislike clippers—and anxious humans worried about cutting the quick (the pink interior of the nail that carries the blood supply). Additionally, a grinder may be preferable for dogs with thick nails or black nails that make it hard to spot the quick.

To trim your dog’s nails, start by desensitizing your dog to the clippers first. Offer plenty of treats and praise while you (patiently) let your dog sniff and investigate the clippers or grinder. Then, with your dog seated comfortably in your lap, squeeze the paw to reveal the nail, locate the quick, and then trim in a fast (but safe and relaxed) motion.

Nail trimming can be a frightening ordeal for some dogs. If you have a puppy, it’s a good idea to acclimate them to paw handling from a young age. It’s also helpful to take your dog for a walk or play with them before trimming their nails to use up excess energy and set a happy mood. Additionally, using a lick mat and offering plenty of treats keeps your dog focused on something other than their nails.

If you’re having trouble trimming your pet’s nails or lack confidence, it is perfectly acceptable to seek assistance from a professional groomer.

Some dogs need their paw pads cared for

Our dogs’ paws have a lot to contend with, especially during the icy winter and scorching summer heat. You can prevent paw damage by using dog booties in extreme conditions and keeping paws moisturized with dog-specific salves, oils, and balms. These products create a barrier between paws and harsh surfaces and can help heal cracked paws. After a muddy hike or romp on the beach, wipe down your pup’s paws to keep them clean and healthy.

Routinely trimming the fur between your dog’s paw pads is also important. “Paw fur, especially the hair that grows underneath the foot and between the paw pads, can cause pets to lose traction on slick floors and potentially lead to injury, especially in puppies and seniors,” explains North. She adds that this fur tends to pick up debris and become easily matted.

According to North, pet parents can maintain paws by keeping the hair short with a small electric hair clipper. “While it’s possible to trim with scissors, that is a bit riskier, and I’d only suggest trying it if the pet parent is confident in their fine motor skills and their dog is calm and able to stay still during the process.”

It’s also a good habit to check your dog’s paw pads for damage. Look for any swelling or discoloration, and gently spread the toes to check for unwanted hitchhikers like burrs or foxtails.

Ear and Eye Care

Your dog’s ears and eyes need some attention, too.

Not all dogs require regular ear cleaning, but some will benefit from it depending on their breed, activity level, and ear health. “Dogs with floppy ears or those prone to ear infections may need more regular cleanings, typically once a month,” says Dr. Sabrina Kong, DVM and staff veterinary writer at We Love Doodles.

Some dogs need to have their ears cleaned regularly

Some dogs are more prone to ear infections, including brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds and dogs with allergies. We also see a higher risk with:

  • Basset Hounds
  • Chinese Shar Peis
  • Labradoodles
  • Beagles
  • Golden Retrievers
  • Gundogs
  • Poodle types
  • Spaniel types

Even so, regular ear cleaning isn’t necessary across the board. “Some dogs do not get ear infections, and if there is no debris in the ears, cleaning them is unnecessary,” says Dr. Shannon Barrett, veterinarian and owner of Downward Paws. She adds that over-cleaning can actually remove protective wax and cause irritation. Dr. Barrett recommends cleaning your dog’s ear when you notice:

  • Head-shaking
  • Pawing at the ears
  • Dark debris inside the ears

Dr. Barrett tells Rover that most dog parents can handle ear cleaning at home with a vet-recommended ear cleaner. “I like Epiotic Advanced ear cleaner by Virbac, which is available over the counter,” she says before laying out the steps for ear cleaning below.

  1. Saturate gauze with ear cleaner.
  2. Squeeze out any excess ear cleaner.
  3. Gently clean the inside of your dog’s ear.
  4. Clean the entrance to the ear canal by folding the gauze in half.
  5. Do NOT use Q-tips.

To keep stress to a minimum, try to schedule ear cleaning after your dog is well-exercised. Go slowly, offering lots of praise and treats along the way. If your dog has a history of ear troubles or you’re unsure about cleaning their ears, Dr. Kong says it’s wise to consult a professional. “A veterinarian or professional groomer can demonstrate proper technique and provide specific advice based on the dog’s individual needs.”

Some dogs need to have their eyes wiped

For most dogs, an eye wipe-down during bathtime will suffice. However, some dogs may require more attention. “Dogs with prominent eyes, long hair, or facial folds might develop tear staining or debris at the corners of their eyes,” says Dr. Jennifer Sperry, veterinarian and spokesperson for Pets Plus Us Pet Insurance. “For these dogs, it is best to clean their eyes daily with a warm, wet, and soft washcloth and to dry them completely.”

Alternatively, you can use a dog-safe eye wipe to remove gunk or crusties. Dr. Sperry also says that persistent and stubborn tear stains may require a special eye cleaner.

Dr. Kong recommends considering a professional groomer if eye cleaning is too difficult or uncomfortable at home. Additionally, any signs of an infection warrant a call to the vet. Dr. Sperry explains this could include squinting, redness, itchiness,  green or yellow discharge, or moist skin around your dog’s eyes.

Dental Care and Teeth Brushing

Oral care is also critical to your dog’s well-being. Just like humans, all dogs need their teeth regularly brushed. In a perfect world, this would happen every day. But the best brushing plan is the one that actually happens, so if each day feels too monumental, aim for a minimum of two to three times per week. Consistent brushing is especially important with small breeds, whose tiny mouths can lead to teeth overcrowding and dental problems.

To get started, you’ll need a toothbrush designed for dogs and a dog-specific toothpaste. Once you have both, follow these four steps.

Step 1: Desensitize your dog. Gently pet their muzzle and lift their lip for 30 seconds. Then, offer a treat.

Step 2:  Run your finger over their teeth for 30 seconds. Offer more treats.

Step 3: Bring in the toothbrush. Let your pup lick a small amount of toothpaste off the brush.

Step 4: If they’re comfortable with these steps, you can start brushing. Focus on the upper outer surfaces.

While there is no substitute for regular brushing, dental chews and textured chew toys can help prevent plaque and tartar from accumulating. You may also want to add a dog mouthwash or dental water additive to your dog’s oral care. These mouthwashes work by using enzymatic ingredients to break down bacteria in your dog’s mouth.

If your dog is resistant to full-on brushing, consider using dental wipes, which are an easy way to remove plaque and freshen your pup’s breath. Similar to other grooming practices, it’s best to brush your dog’s teeth after their mental and physical needs have been met. North also recommends consulting a certified trainer for guidance if your pet continues to struggle with teeth brushing.

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